Most men own one hoodie. Most of those hoodies are wrong for the moment.
Not in a fashion sense. In a function sense. The hoodie you grab to walk the dog in 45-degree weather is not the same hoodie you want to throw on after a 75-degree surf session. They look the same on the hanger. They feel like entirely different garments on the skin.
This is a guide to choosing a men's hoodie based on what you'll actually do in it. Weight, fabric, fit, and a few details nobody tells you to look for.
Why weight matters most
The weight of a hoodie is measured in GSM (grams per square meter) or sometimes ounces per square yard. It's the single biggest signal of how a hoodie will feel and how it will perform.
Here's the rough map:
- Under 220 GSM is lightweight. Almost t-shirt thick. Great for layering under a jacket or summer evenings. Comfortable in moderate temperatures, not a winter piece.
- 220 to 300 GSM is midweight. The everyday hoodie. Worn solo in mild weather, under a shell when it's colder. The default weight for most hoodies on the rack.
- 300+ GSM is heavyweight. Substantial, structured, broad-shouldered. Cold mornings, fall ranch work, the hoodie you keep returning to without thinking about it.
- 400+ GSM is super-heavyweight. Rare. Often loop-back or brushed fleece. The hoodie that becomes a relationship over years of wear.
Most fast-fashion hoodies live in the 200 to 260 GSM range. They're cheap to make at that weight. They're also forgettable. The hoodies you remember owning, the ones that get worn until the cuffs go soft and the drawstrings have a permanent twist, are almost always 320 GSM or heavier.
A heavier hoodie costs more to produce and ship. Brands that cut corners on weight do it because customers can't immediately tell from a photo. Once you know to ask for the GSM, you'll see who's hiding what.
Fabric: French terry vs. fleece
Two fabrics dominate the hoodie market. They look similar on the rack but feel different on the body.
French terry is a knit fabric with small loops on the inside and a smooth face. Lighter, more drapey, stretches more naturally. Great for spring and fall. Doesn't have that “winter coat” thickness. Sits closer to the skin without feeling clammy. Best for movement, layering, and transitional weather.
Fleece is brushed on the inside. Those loops you'd find in French terry get cut and napped, creating that soft, fuzzy interior. Heavier, warmer, more structured. Holds shape better over years of wear. Built for warmth and longevity.
A few other terms you'll see:
- Loopback is another name for French terry's underside structure.
- Brushed back means the interior loops have been combed and softened.
- Heavyweight fleece usually means brushed back, 320+ GSM, often combed cotton.
Rule of thumb: French terry for movement and warmer weather. Fleece for cold and durability. If you only buy one, get a midweight French terry. It's the most versatile material in the category.
Fit: the third thing nobody tells you about
The biggest mistake men make with hoodies is buying for the size they used to be rather than the size they want to wear.
Three common fits:
- Regular fit. Standard. Trim through the body, hits at the waist or just below. Works for layering, works alone. Ages best.
- Boxy or oversized fit. Wider through the body, shorter in the back, cropped sleeves. Trendy right now, ages quickly. If you buy this fit, expect to retire the hoodie in two years.
- Athletic fit. Tapered, fitted through the shoulders and chest. For guys who actually train.
For an investment piece, regular fit ages best. Trendy fits look weird two years from now.
The one detail to check before you buy: the shoulder seam. It should sit right at the edge of your shoulder, not above and not below. A hoodie with the seam dropped two inches past your shoulder isn't fitting you, it's wearing you.
What separates a good hoodie from a great one
These are the details most buying guides skip. They're also where the price difference between a $30 hoodie and a $110 hoodie shows up.
The cuffs. Quality hoodies have ribbed cuffs that hold their shape after a year of wear. Cheap hoodies have stretchy cuffs that go floppy by week three. Pinch the cuff in your fingers. If it springs back, you're good. If it stays compressed, skip it.
The hood. A two-panel hood is cheaper to make and sits flat against your back. A three-panel hood has a center seam and stands up properly around your neck. Three-panel is better. It frames your face when up and drapes correctly when down.
The drawcords. Metal grommets and dyed-to-match drawcords are the standard for quality. Plastic grommets and unfinished drawcords are the tell of a budget hoodie. The drawcords should also be tipped, with finished ends so they don't fray.
The stitching. Look for double-needle topstitching at the sleeves, hem, and pocket openings. That's a sign of construction built to last. Single-needle stitching unravels after a few washes.
The neck tape. Inside the hood, there should be twill tape running across the back of the neck. It hides the seam, prevents stretching, and adds structure. Cheap hoodies skip this.
Match the hoodie to the work
Most buying guides stop at “buy quality.” Here's the part they skip:
Don't think about which hoodie is “best.” Think about what you'll actually wear it for. The best hoodie for a 5am dog walk is not the best hoodie for a weekend bonfire is not the best hoodie for the 30 minutes between school drop-off and your first work call.
If you live somewhere warm or you run hot, midweight (220 to 280 GSM) French terry is your one-hoodie pick.
If you live somewhere with real winters or want a piece that'll outlast every other layer in your closet, heavyweight (300+ GSM) fleece is your one-hoodie pick.
Most men benefit from one of each.
The STILLWEST line
We make four heavyweight hoodies and one midweight French terry. All five live at $110.
The Mountain Hoodie. 356 GSM (10.5 oz/yd²). 75% US cotton, 25% recycled polyester. Heavyweight fleece, classic unisex fit. Built for the morning before the work starts. This is the hoodie that gets passed around the truck and ends up smelling like coffee.
The Sunrise Hoodie. 350 GSM (10.3 oz/yd²). 3-end fleece with a 100% ring-spun cotton face. The everyday heavyweight, built to last through years of wear.
The Compass Hoodie. 350 GSM (10.3 oz/yd²). Same 3-end fleece construction as the Sunrise, in the Coast pillar. For coastal mornings, fog walks, and the drive home when the sun hasn't fully come up.
The Surf Club Crewneck. 350 GSM (10.3 oz/yd²). Crewneck, not hoodie. 80% organic combed ring-spun cotton, 20% recycled polyester. GOTS and OCS certified organic. Same family, different silhouette.
The Cordillera Hoodie. 250 GSM (7.4 oz/yd²). 3-end French terry. The midweight in the lineup. Three-panel self-lined hood, dyed-to-match drawcord with metal grommets, double-needle topstitch on all seams, twill neck tape. The piece you reach for in transitional weather or after-surf.
Same fit. Same care. Different weights for different lives.
Care, briefly
The single biggest thing you can do to make a hoodie last:
- Wash cold.
- Tumble dry low or hang dry.
- Don't iron.
- Don't bleach.
That's it. Hoodies are forgiving garments if you don't punish them.
One last thing
The hoodie you're going to love is the one you wear without thinking. Not the one that looks the coolest on the hanger or has the most expensive label. The one that feels right when you put it on and disappears when you wear it.
Pick the weight that matches your day. The fabric that matches your weather. The fit that matches the version of you you actually are.
That's the whole guide.